1- EXCAVATION
Before digging, make sure there are no inground wires or gaz conducts. Determine the surface to be paved as precisely as possible. It makes it easier to evaluate the material needed for your project. To ensure better stability of borders as well as pavers, excavate 12” beyond surface to pave. It is recommended, to ensure sufficient drainage, to excavate to get a minimum incline of 2% (1/4” per foot).
2- FOUNDATION
Put down a geotextile membrane at the bottom of the excavation. It prevents contamination of 0-3/4 gravel base from dirt or clay and also ensures greater stability. Spread the 0-3/4” stone by 4” layers. Compact with vibrating plate or roller. Wet to ease tamping and to reduce dust caused by compacting. Once that step completed, the profile of your ground should have the aspect of the final result.
3- INSTALLATION BED
One inch of stone dust or concrete sand (some studies have proved sand being more stable) that should be leveled with a straight piece of wood or aluminum bar that you pull on 2 guides (1” diameter steel pipes) previously installed on the 0-3/4 compacted base. Compact with a vibrating plate once the pavers have been layed down. The bricks will then settle into the screening or sand which will reduce to 5/8” once compacted.
4- LAYING THE PAVING STONES
Install the borders on one side before laying the paving stones. We will proceed to the installation of the borders at the other end once there. By doing so we avoid cutting bricks as much as possible. Ideally start at a 90 degree angle and at the bottom of a slope on an inclined plan. Proceed by walking on your pavers, not on the installation bed (screening or sand). Leave a 1/8” gap between pavers to allow filling the joints. Some pavers are manufactured with spacers. For better result, it is recommended to pick bricks from more than one pallet at a time. This way you get a more even distribution of colours and textures. After every 5 rows, verify the alignment of the pavers and use a screw driver, paver adjuster or PaverPersuader to adjust if necessary.
You will most probably need to cut some bricks. Rent a guillotine or a concrete saw. If you need very few cuts it may be more convenient for you to bring them to our store. We offer the service of cutting blocks. Just mark them where you need them cut. Once you are laying down the pavers, spread the polymeric sand and run the vibrating plate twice in both directions. The bricks will then settle into the stone dust by 3/8”. It is recommended to keep a number of extra bricks. In case of replacement you are then assured they are from the same lot.
5- FILLING THE JOINTS
Different products can be used for that purpose. In all cases, apply on a DRY surface. Spread the product all over the paving stones then work it into the joints by brushing in all directions. To make sure the joints are filled, run the vibrating plate one more time and brush in what is left over.
Polymeric sand
By far the best option. Make sure there is none left on the pavers. Use a leaf blower and then spray with water. Proceed by 200 sq.ft. sections. Spray water for 30 seconds, take a 30 second pause and spray a 2nd time for 30 seconds. Use your leaf blower once again on wet surface to avoid “cementary” stains. Let dry for 24 hours. It will harden once dry, stay in place, reduce weed growth, resist insects, follow ground movements and stabilize your work.
Dry sand
Less expensive initially but more expensive with time. Will wash away when wet. To reapply continuously.
Stone dust
To fill bigger gaps. Wet it so it compacts properly in between the pavers. Keeps moisture so will favorise the growth of green moss between the bricks.
